Summary: Dawn by Bike – Champagne Bubbles, Golden Stained Glass, and Endless Plains This article explores the Aube department (10), a land of chalk, woods, and water at the gateway to Burgundy and Île-de-France. It is the ultimate paradise for elegant and gourmet "slow tourism," characterized by a full immersion in a peaceful countryside dotted with architectural treasures and prestigious cellars. The suggested route, a 210 km journey, connects the gentle Vélovoie des Lacs (an exceptional, perfectly flat greenway) to the wild exploration of the Pays d'Othe (vast state forests) and the Côte des Bar (the heart of Champagne’s wine region). The trip winds along the majestic loops of the Seine and Aube rivers, passes through the medieval city of Troyes, and ends in Champagne’s largest wine-growing area, at the Riceys. Total disconnection, wild mysteries, and a surprisingly varied elevation guarantee an unforgettable adventure in the heart of the "High Country."

Chronicles of a Tour de France by Bike: Episode 10 – Aube, Champagne Bubbles, Golden Stained Glass, and Endless Plains

After the wild Pyrenees, the dizzying citadels, and the giant passes of Ariège (09), our great challenge of crossing France by bike brings us to the Northeast, at the gates of Burgundy and Île-de-France: in 10, Aube.

A radical change of scenery, terrain, and atmosphere. Leaving the raw high mountains behind, we dive into a land of softness, history, and sparkling terroir. Aube is not a department that tries to impress you with its verticality: it is a land of subtle contrasts, where the endless cereal plains of the chalky Champagne soften as they meet the wooded hills of the Pays d'Othe and the Orient Forest Regional Natural Park. For the cycle tourist, it’s the paradise of elegant and gourmet "slow tourism," offering total disconnection in a peaceful countryside dotted with architectural treasures and prestigious cellars.

Prepare your flute (because tasting will be on the agenda!), sharpen your observation skills, and let yourself be enchanted: we’re setting off to explore sparkling Aube.

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Aube by Bike: What to Expect?

It’s the department of chalk, wood, and water. The air is pure, fresh, and filled with the scents of wet earth, deep forest, and ripening grapes.

The Profile: Mostly flat and rolling. Don’t be fooled by the image of a monotonous cereal plain: as soon as you leave the main roads (which you will avoid), you face the terrain. Aube is home to the Côte des Bar (the wine heart) with gentle, regular hills, the dense forests of the Pays d'Othe, and the rolling landscapes of the south. The total elevation gain will be surprising, but the slopes are always gentle and gradual, perfect for touring cycling.

The Atmosphere: A total immersion in a powerful, peaceful, and cultivated nature. It’s a department where agriculture and viticulture shape the landscapes. You will often pedal alone, surrounded by fields of wheat, barley, or rapeseed, vineyards as far as the eye can see, or vast state forests. The welcome is Champenois, elegant and discreet, imbued with pride in the terroir and the art of living. It’s the kingdom of calm and reconnection.

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Our Suggested Route: Crossing Bubbles, History, and Nature (approx. 210 km)

To capture the unique duality of this department, we offer a 5-day itinerary blending the softness of the Vélovoie des Lacs with the wild exploration of the Côte des Bar and the Pays d'Othe.

Day 1: The Vélovoie des Lacs and Fortified Troyes (approx. 45 km)

Start: Dienville (Lake Amance).

The Route: Take the Vélovoie des Lacs (V81). It’s a perfectly developed greenway crossing the Orient Forest Regional Natural Park. The slope is flat; you follow the shores of the three large reservoir lakes (Amance, Temple, Orient) through landscapes of forest and water. It’s the ideal introduction, easy and relaxing.

The Stop: Troyes. Visit its historic center, the famous "Champagne Cork," known for its half-timbered houses, gothic churches with exceptional stained glass, and medieval atmosphere. Don’t miss Saint Peter and Saint Paul Cathedral and the narrow, winding alleys.

Day 2: Wild Immersion in the Pays d'Othe and the Stained Glass (approx. 55 km)

The Route: Goodbye to the softness of the lakes. You leave the Vélovoie to enter the wild heart of the Pays d'Othe. The road climbs through vast state forests, far from any civilization. The profile is hilly and demanding. You cross isolated villages before reaching Ervy-le-Châtel, a "gateway town" fortified by Vauban in the 17th century, famous for the 1643 battle. The atmosphere is unique, frozen in time.

The Stop: Ervy-le-Châtel or nearby. Altitude and freshness guaranteed.

Day 3: Côte des Bar and Awakening the Senses (approx. 50 km)

The Route: You enter the heart of the Ardennes Massif. The road climbs through vast state forests, far from any civilization. The profile is hilly and demanding. You cross isolated villages before reaching Rocroi, a "star-shaped town" fortified by Vauban in the 17th century, famous for the 1643 battle. The atmosphere is unique, frozen in time.

The Stop: Les Riceys or nearby. The largest wine-growing terroir in Champagne.

Day 4: Return to the Meuse via Givet (approx. 60 km)

The Route: You descend back to the Troyes plain from the north. The road crosses pastoral Ardennes landscapes before reaching Givet, at the "Tip of the Ardennes." Visit the Charlemont Citadel before taking the Meuse by Bike route south. It’s a magnificent transition day, blending fortified history and a return to gentle river landscapes.

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Must-Sees in Aube by Bike

1. Vélovoie des Lacs (V81): An exceptional greenway perfectly developed over 40 km, ideal for gentle touring.

2. Troyes (the Champagne Cork): Its historic center, half-timbered houses, gothic churches, and golden stained glass (City of Stained Glass).

3. Côte des Bar: For gently rolling vineyard landscapes, prestigious cellars, and characterful villages.

4. Pays d'Othe: For wild immersion in vast state forests and isolated villages.

5. Les Riceys: The largest wine-growing terroir in Champagne, famous for its three AOCs (Champagne, Coteaux Champenois, Rosé des Riceys).

6. Clairvaux Abbey: A major historic site of the Cistercian order, for a dive into religious history.

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Practical Tips for the 10

• When to Go? From mid-June to mid-September for the major Alpine passes (Galibier and Agnel are closed in winter). In July/August, start early to avoid heat in the lower valleys and cars on the famous passes. Autumn is beautiful (larch colors) but the passes can be snowy.

• Which Bike? A lightweight road bike with very easy gearing (triple chainring or compact with a generous cassette) is essential. A gravel bike can be an excellent option to explore the Queyras or Gapençais trails. Make sure you have excellent brakes for the endless descents.

• Accommodation: The department is very well equipped with campsites, stage lodges, and guest rooms. The "Accueil Vélo" label is widespread. Book in advance during high season, especially near the major passes.

• Supplies: Villages are rare and sometimes very isolated in the high country. Always carry plenty of water (there can be long stretches without fountains) and energy bars. Don’t miss tasting lavender honey, Sisteron lamb, and local goat cheeses.

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Final Word

Cycling in Aube means accepting the challenge of raw, wild, and legendary nature. It means suffering to earn panoramas of absolute beauty. It’s not a department of compromise. It’s the clash of granite, water, and forest, the purity of the air, and the roughness of the slope.

It’s the ultimate stage for the cycle tourist seeking authenticity, wild mysteries, and total disconnection, where the road brushes the clouds before plunging into dizzying canyons.

And you, have you already conquered the bubbles, the stained glass, or the forests of Aube? Share your exploits and favorites in the comments!

See you soon for episode 11 of our Tour de France by Bike!

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