
Chronicles of a Tour de France by Bike: Episode 38 – The Isère From the plains of the Rhône to the giants of the Oisans: Vertical Cycle Touring
, by Thierry Bourgarel, 3 min reading time

, by Thierry Bourgarel, 3 min reading time
Episode 38 takes us to Isère, the monumental gateway to the Alps. A radical change of scenery after the Loire: here, cycle touring takes on a vertical dimension. From the peaceful bike paths of Grenoble to legendary mountain passes like Alpe d'Huez, the region offers a spectacular duality. It’s an adventure where the steepness of the climb is rewarded with exceptionally pure panoramas and an authentic mountain lifestyle, perfect for enthusiasts of wild challenges and total disconnection.
From the Rhône Plains to the Giants of Oisans: Vertical Cycle Touring
After the royal elegance and river landscapes of Indre-et-Loire (37), our bike journey across France gains altitude. Welcome to Isère, a land of absolute contrasts, where the peaceful Rhône gives way to snowy peaks, and coastal greenways are replaced by legendary hairpin bends.
It’s a complete change of scenery. We enter the Alps, the beating heart of mountain cycling in France. Isère is not a department that easily lets itself be tamed: it’s the visual shock between fertile plains, gentle hills at the foot of the Vercors, and the vertical majesty of the Chartreuse, Belledonne, and Écrins massifs. For the cycle tourist, it’s the ultimate playground of diversity: you can pedal in a postcard-like wine region atmosphere in the morning and dive into the vast blue of glaciers in the afternoon.
Prepare your pace (because here, kilometers are earned by leg strength), sharpen your observation skills (the light changes with every altitude), and breathe the fresh pure air: we’re setting off to explore radiant Isère.
This is the department of rushing water, granite and limestone rock, and deep valleys. The air is crisp, mountainous, scented with pine resin and alpine herbs.
The Profile: Surprisingly diverse and demanding. The department offers two very distinct cycling faces. The Rhône Valley (ViaRhône) and the northern part of the department are perfectly flat, ideal for gentle touring. The south and east (Oisans, Trièves, Chartreuse, Vercors) feature mountainous terrain, with endless passes and cumulative elevation gains that will surprise you, but every effort is rewarded with a cosmic panorama.
The Atmosphere: A total immersion in dazzling light, millennia of history, and a legendary way of life. You will often pedal alone through gentle countryside or shaded pine forests, crossing centuries-old stone villages like Saint-Antoine-l'Abbaye. It’s the realm of calm, wilderness, and absolute reconnection.
Day 1: Grenoble, Capital of the Alps and the Vercors Balconies (approx. 50 km) Departure: Grenoble. The city surrounded by mountains. The Route: You leave the city via the greenway along the Isère before tackling the first slopes of the Vercors massif. The dizzying cliffside road overlooks the valley, offering unique views of the city and surrounding peaks. It’s an ideal introduction, gradual yet already spectacular. The Stopover: Villard-de-Lans or nearby. Berry-like softness and salty scents.
Day 2: The Secret Chartreuse and the Fathers’ Monastery (approx. 65 km) The Route: No more gentle plains. You leave the Vercors to enter the wild heart of the Chartreuse massif. The road winds between monumental limestone cliffs and dense beech forests. It’s a spectacular day, marked by crossing the desert of the Grande Chartreuse. The road is carved into the cliff, overlooking turquoise torrents. It’s a total disconnection. The Stopover: Saint-Pierre-de-Chartreuse. To visit its majestic Monastery.
Day 3: The Vertigo of Belledonne and Mountain Lakes (approx. 55 km) The Route: Different terrain, different scenery. You head north to reach the legendary Belledonne Range. It’s a spectacular day, marked by endless passes. The road crosses grassy Ardennes-like landscapes before reaching Chamrousse. It’s a magnificent transition day, blending fortified history and a return to riverine softness. The Stopover: Bourg-d’Oisans. At the foot of Alpe d’Huez.
Day 4: Alpe d’Huez, the Myth of the 21 Hairpins (approx. 40 km, but vertical!) The Route: The ultimate test of your trip. 21 legendary hairpins, 1100 meters of positive elevation gain over 14 km. Each hairpin is named after a Tour de France stage winner. It’s a suffering to earn a cosmic panorama. It’s the absolute mineral shock.
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