This article explores the Cantal department (15), a land of raw contrast in the Massif Central, shaped by the elements and of spectacular strength. It is the absolute paradise of characterful "slow tourism," offering challenging terrain and breathtaking landscapes. The suggested route, a 240 km crossing, connects the medieval town of Murat in the warm volcanic north, passing through the mythical peaks of the Monts du Cantal, the deep glacial canyons of the Jordanne Valleys, and the endless grassy summer pastures of the Planèze. The journey ends in a grand finale on the wild Aubrac Plateau, overlooking deep valleys and perched villages like Conques (UNESCO, Aveyron).

Chronicles of a Tour de France by Bike: Episode 15 – Cantal, Sacred Volcanoes, Endless Summer Pastures, and Green Strength

After the gentle bocage of Normandy and the historic beaches of Calvados (14), our great challenge to cross France by bike propels us to the Massif Central, in the heart of wild Auvergne: in 15, Cantal.

A radical change in scale, terrain, and intensity. Leaving the lush Normandy behind, we dive into a department of character, raw, powerful, and mineral. Cantal is not a land of compromise: it’s a visual shock between Europe’s largest stratovolcano (the Cantal Massif), deep glacial valleys carved by the Jordanne or the Cère, and vast summer pasture plateaus (the Planèzes). For the cycling tourist, it’s a paradise of pure effort rewarded by panoramas of cosmic beauty and total disconnection.

Prepare your calves (because it’s going to climb hard and long!), sharpen your sense of adventure and your appetite (Cantal gastronomy is well earned): we set off to conquer volcanic Cantal.

---

Cantal by Bike: What to Expect?

It’s the department of volcanic stone, flowing water, and silence. The air is pure, fresh at higher altitudes, warm and vibrant in the lower valleys.

The Profile: Demanding, mountainous, and spectacular. It’s simple: there is no flat terrain in central Cantal. The department is an endless succession of "ups and downs." You will spend your time climbing long, steady passes to reach volcanic summits (Puy Mary, Plomb du Cantal), or descending technical cliffside roads toward the valleys. Positive elevation gain will be your daily companion, a test of patience and strength.

The Atmosphere: A total immersion in powerful and preserved nature. It is one of the least densely populated departments in France. You will often pedal alone, surrounded by monumental dormant volcanoes, beech and fir forests, or grassy summer pastures where mahogany-coated Salers cows graze. The welcome is typically Cantalien: frank, supportive, and proud of its land. It’s the realm of calm, respect for effort, and reconnection.

---

Our Suggested Route: Crossing Volcanoes, Valleys, and the Most Beautiful Villages (approx. 240 km)

To capture the unique diversity of this department, we offer a 6-day itinerary combining the ascent of legendary summits with the discovery of secret valleys and classified villages.

Day 1: Murat, the Medieval Town and the Assault on Puy Mary (approx. 40 km)

Start: Murat. A town of character nestled at the foot of the volcanoes.

The Route: You immediately tackle the legendary Cantal Massif. The climb from Murat to Col de Peyrol is long (20 km), steady but relentless. The landscape becomes lunar, desert-like, an expanse of volcanic stone and scrubland. It’s a spectacular ridge road offering endless views of Puy Mary (1,783 m) and the Cantal Mountains. At the summit of Col de Peyrol (1,588 m), the panorama is breathtaking.

The Stopover: Le Claux or nearby. The silent vastness of Pas de Peyrol for the night.

Day 2: Descent to the Jordanne Valley and Aurillac (approx. 55 km)

The Route: The volcanic aridity ends. You descend south to join the Jordanne valley. It’s a spectacular day marked by crossing this deep glacial valley. The road is carved into the volcanic cliff, overlooking turquoise torrents. It’s a succession of spectacular viewpoints, a technical but unforgettable road dotted with perched villages.

The Stopover: Aurillac. The capital of umbrellas and the street theater festival.

Day 3: The Wild Heart of the Planèze Plateau and Salers (approx. 50 km)

The Route: Different terrain, different scenery. You climb back onto the summer pasture plateau of the Planèze heading west. The ascent is wild, technical, in the heart of vast state forests, far from any civilization. The profile is hilly and demanding. You cross isolated villages before reaching Salers, a fortified "town of character," listed among the Most Beautiful Villages of France. The atmosphere is unique, frozen in time, overlooking impressive gorges.

The Stopover: Salers or nearby. Altitude and freshness guaranteed.

Day 4: The Cère Valley and the Castles of Auvergne (approx. 60 km)

The Route: You radically change valleys to reach the Cère valley to the south. The road winds between monumental volcanic cliffs and lush landscapes. It’s a magnificent transition day, dotted with medieval castles and "Most Beautiful Villages of France": Laroquebrou, Saint-Santin, Conques (in Aveyron, but you will return there).

---

Must-Sees in Cantal by Bike

1. Puy Mary (Grand Site of France) and Pas de Peyrol: The heart of the stratovolcano, a legendary climb offering cosmic views.

2. Plomb du Cantal and Lioran Cable Car: To pedal on the highest summit of the department (1,855 m) and admire the glaciers.

3. Salers (Most Beautiful Village of France): A fortified mahogany town, famous for its cheese and cows.

4. Jordanne Valley and Cère Gorges: Deep glacial canyons, cliffside roads, and perched villages.

5. Murat and its Medieval Heritage: A town of character at the foot of the volcanoes.

6. Towns of Character and Most Beautiful Villages: Saint-Flour, Tournemire, Alleuze... a unique concentration of art and history.

---

Practical Tips for the 15

• When to Go? From mid-May to mid-October for the volcanic plateaus. June and September are ideal: temperatures are mild and landscapes sublime (green pastures, blue gentians). In July/August, start early to avoid the heat in the lower valleys. Autumn is magnificent (colors of the beeches).

• Which Bike? A lightweight road bike with a very easy gear range (compact with a generous cassette like 32 or 34) is essential. A gravel bike is an excellent option to explore pasture tracks or the "drailles" of the Planèzes. Make sure you have excellent brakes for the endless descents.

• Accommodation: The department is well equipped with campsites, stage lodges (many on the Via Arverna and GR 400), and guest rooms. The "Accueil Vélo" label is growing. Book in advance during high season, especially near major sites.

• Supplies: Villages are rare and isolated, especially on the summer pastures. Always carry plenty of water (there can be long stretches without fountains) and energy bars. Don’t miss tasting Cantal (AOP), Salers (AOP), Truffade, and Pounti.

---

Final Word

Cycling in Cantal means accepting the challenge of raw, wild nature and spectacular green strength. It means suffering to earn panoramas of cosmic beauty. It’s not a department of compromise. It’s the clash of volcanic stone, flowing water, and silence, the purity of the air, and the harshness of the slope.

It’s the ultimate stage for the cycling tourist seeking authenticity, wild challenges, and total disconnection, where the road brushes the clouds before plunging into dizzying canyons or secret valleys.

And you, have you already conquered the volcanoes, summer pastures, or towns of character in Cantal? Share your achievements and favorites in the comments!

See you soon for episode 16 of our Tour de France by Bike!

---

• Share on:
• WhatsApp
• Deel
• X
• Pin it
• Messenger
• Email

---