After the thrill of the Vercors, the scents of Provence, and the gentle Rhône in Drôme (26), our great challenge of cycling across France takes us northwest, into the heart of gentle Normandy: in 27, Eure.

Chronicles of a Tour de France by Bike: Episode 27 – Eure, Impressionist Normandy, Valleys of Light, Gardens of Giverny, and Abbeys of Silence

After the vertigo of the Vercors, the scents of Provence, and the gentle Rhône of Drôme (26), our great challenge to cross France by bike takes us northwest, into the heart of gentle Normandy: in 27, Eure.

A radical change of horizon, terrain, light, and atmosphere. Leaving behind the limestone verticality and intense southern sun, we dive into a land of soothing elegance, where the soft green bocage blends with the majestic blue of the Seine and the bright white chalk cliffs. Eure is not a department that tries to impress you with raw verticality: it is a land of subtle contrasts, mixing the vibrant light that inspired Claude Monet (Giverny) with the tragic solemnity of ruined abbeys (Jumièges), and the bucolic softness of its fertile valleys. For the cycle tourist, it’s a paradise of balanced "slow tourism," offering total disconnection in a peaceful countryside dotted with artistic and spiritual treasures.

Prepare your pace (because here, life is savored slowly), sharpen your observation skills (the light changes every moment), and breathe the fresh air: we’re setting off to explore Impressionist Eure.

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Eure by Bike: What to Expect?

This is the department of water (Seine, rivers), chalk, and forests as far as the eye can see. The air is pure, crisp, fresh on the heights, soft and scented by blooming apple trees and damp earth in the hinterland.

The Profile: Deceptively gentle, mostly accessible. The department offers three distinct cycling faces. The Seine valley (Seine à Vélo) is perfectly flat, ideal for gentle touring and families. The Neubourg Plateau and Saint-André Plain offer rolling terrain, with gentle hills and regular false flats. Finally, the Eure and Iton valleys provide more energetic terrain, with short but sometimes steep "hills." The total elevation gain will be surprising, but the slopes are rarely endless.

The Atmosphere: A total immersion in a peaceful history and preserved nature. This is a department where the medieval past (Château-Gaillard), the Renaissance, and artistic adventure (Impressionism) are omnipresent. You will often pedal alone through gentle countryside, crossing postcard-brick villages or monumental ruins (Abbaye de Notre-Dame-du-Bec). The welcome is Norman, warm, proud of its terroir, and marked by the art of living. It’s the realm of calm, respect for effort, and reconnection.

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Our Suggested Route: Crossing the Valleys of Light and the Prehistory of Art (approx. 220 km)

To capture the unique diversity of this department, we propose a 5-day itinerary, mixing gentle touring along the river with rugged exploration of the high limestone country.

Day 1: Vernon, the Gateway to Normandy and the Assault on the Valley (approx. 40 km)

Start: Vernon. A medieval town, famous for its old perched mill and peaceful atmosphere on the Seine’s edge.

The Route: You immediately join the Seine à Vélo (V33). It’s a fully developed greenway following the river’s course. The slope is flat, and you follow the riverbanks through landscapes of dunes and chalk cliffs. It’s the ideal introduction, easy and relaxing, paced by passing barges. Visit the Collegiate Church of Notre-Dame and the Vernon Museum before setting off.

The Stage: Les Andelys. The mineral apotheosis.

Day 2: Historical Immersion in the Seine Valley and Château-Gaillard (approx. 55 km)

The Route: No more river gentleness. You leave the greenway to tackle the wild heart of the Neubourg Plateau. The road winds between monumental limestone cliffs and lush landscapes. It’s a spectacular day, marked by crossing impressive gorges (Clue de Calamès). The road is carved into the limestone cliff, overlooking turquoise torrents. It’s total disconnection, a striking natural show, dotted with medieval villages like Les Andelys, a fortress perched on its rocky spur.

The Stage: Les Andelys. Visit the ducal castle of Château-Gaillard, a masterpiece of medieval military architecture, nicknamed the "Hawk’s Head."

Day 3: The Vertigo of the Gardens of Giverny and the Eure Valley (approx. 50 km)

The Route: Different terrain, different scenery. You reach the rugged coast east of Marseille. The landscape changes radically. The rock becomes white and overwhelming limestone. You take the cliff road overlooking the Calanques National Park, the French limestone Grand Canyon. It’s a sublime cliff road carved into the rock. The viewpoints are dizzying: the turquoise waters of the Verdon flow hundreds of meters below, winding under the majestic Pont de l’Arc, a unique natural arch in the world. It’s a succession of spectacular viewpoints, a technical but unforgettable road, dotted with perched villages.

The Stage: Giverny. The City of Impressionism, to visit Claude Monet’s House and Gardens (UNESCO).

Day 4: The Abbey Route and Return to the Dukes (approx. 60 km)

The Route: You descend toward the Troyes plain from the north. The road crosses grassy Ardennes landscapes before reaching Givet, at the "Point of the Ardennes." Visit the Charlemont Citadel before resuming the Meuse à Vélo southward. It’s a magnificent transition day, mixing fortified history and a return to river gentleness.

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Must-Sees of Eure by Bike

1. Claude Monet Foundation (Giverny UNESCO): The House and Water and Flower Gardens, a powerful immersion in Impressionist light.

2. Château-Gaillard (Les Andelys): Richard the Lionheart’s medieval fortress, for its unique view over the Seine (UNESCO).

3. Seine à Vélo (V33): Gentle touring over 100 km in the department, along the majestic river (UNESCO).

4. Jumièges Abbey (UNESCO, further north): The monumental ruins of the "most beautiful abbey in the kingdom," a symbol of resistance.

5. Marais-Vernier (Norman Seine Loops Regional Natural Park): Gentle touring under the pines.

6. Character Towns and Most Beautiful Villages: Bec-Hellouin, Lyons-la-Forêt, Bernay, Pont-Audemer... a unique concentration.

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Practical Tips for the 27

• When to Go? From mid-May to mid-October for the valley and gardens. June and September are ideal: temperatures are mild and landscapes sublime. In July/August, it will be very hot in the lower valleys (Seine, Eure): start very early! Autumn is magnificent (colors of the apple trees).

• Which Bike? A lightweight road bike or a gravel bike is perfect for Eure. Make sure you have a flexible gear setup (triple chainring or compact with a generous cassette like 28 or 32) for the high country. Wide tires (32-35 mm) are recommended for towpath sections or limestone tracks. Make sure you have excellent brakes for technical descents.

• Accommodation: The department is well equipped with campsites, stage lodges (many on the Way of St. James), and guest rooms. The "Accueil Vélo" label is well developed along the Seine à Vélo. Book in advance during high season.

• Supplies: Villages are rare and sometimes very isolated in the high country. Always carry plenty of water (there can be long stretches without fountains) and energy bars. Don’t miss tasting Normandy Cider (AOP), Camembert (AOP), Truffade, and Berry melon.

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Final Word

Cycling in Eure means accepting the challenge of raw, wild, volcanic nature and spectacular duality. It means suffering to earn panoramas of cosmic beauty. It’s not a department of compromise. It’s the clash of chalk, rushing water, and silence, the purity of the air and the roughness of the slope.

It’s the ultimate stage for the cycle tourist seeking authenticity, wild challenges, and total disconnection, where the road brushes the clouds before plunging into dizzying canyons or secret valleys.

And you, have you already conquered the Impressionist gardens, the valleys of light, or the Vauban citadels of Eure? Share your exploits and favorites in the comments!

See you soon for episode 28 of our Tour de France by Bike!

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