After Impressionist Normandy, the gardens of Giverny, and the silent abbeys of Eure (27), our great challenge of cycling across France takes us to the gates of Île-de-France and the Grand West: in 28, Eure-et-Loir.

Chronicles of a Tour de France by Bike: Episode 28 – Eure-et-Loir, Beauce Horizon, Chartres Arrows, Peaceful Rivers, and Wild Perche

After Impressionist Normandy, the gardens of Giverny, and the silent abbeys of Eure (27), our great challenge to cross France by bike takes us to the gates of Île-de-France and the Grand West: into 28, Eure-et-Loir.

A radical change of horizon, terrain, light, and atmosphere. Leaving the gentle rolling hills of Normandy, we plunge into a land of monumental flatness, where the "most beautiful stream in the kingdom," the Eure, shapes landscapes of absolute serenity. Eure-et-Loir is not a department that tries to impress you with sheer verticality: it is a land of subtle contrasts, blending the vertical majesty of Chartres Cathedral (UNESCO), visible for miles around, with the fertile flatness of the Beauce ("the granary of France") and the wild mystery of the Perche. For the cycle tourist, it’s a paradise of balanced "slow tourism," offering total disconnection in peaceful countryside dotted with historical and culinary treasures.

Prepare your pace (because here, we take time to live), sharpen your observation skills (the light changes every moment), and breathe the fresh air: we’re setting off to explore radiant Eure-et-Loir.

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Eure-et-Loir by Bike: What to Expect?

This is the department of ochre limestone, water (Eure, Loir, canals), and grain. The air is pure, crisp, continental, cool by the banks, scented by deep earth and ripening grapes.

The Profile: Monumentally flat, mostly accessible. The department is mostly flat, making it ideal for all levels. The Beauce offers absolute flatness, perfect for gentle touring and families. The Eure and Loir valleys provide more energetic terrain, with short but sometimes steep "hills." Finally, the Perche (to the northwest) offers rolling terrain, with gentle hills but short, sometimes steep passes. The total elevation gain will be surprising, but the slopes are rarely endless.

The Atmosphere: A total immersion in peaceful history and preserved nature. This is a department where medieval past, the Renaissance, and spiritual adventure are ever-present. You will often pedal alone through gentle countryside, passing postcard ochre stone villages or monumental remains (Chartres Cathedral). The welcome is warm, proud of its terroir, and marked by the art of living. It’s the kingdom of calm, respect for effort, and reconnection.

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Our Suggested Route: Crossing Rivers, Arrows, and Gourmet Terroir (approx. 230 km)

To capture the unique diversity of this department, we propose a 5-day itinerary, mixing gentle touring along the river with energetic exploration of the limestone highlands.

Day 1: Chartres, the City of Lights and the Valley Assault (approx. 40 km)

Start: Chartres. The historic capital, famous for its Notre-Dame Cathedral (UNESCO), its medieval center, and vibrant spiritual atmosphere.

The Route: You immediately take on the Eure Valley Cycle Route (V50). It’s a perfectly developed greenway following the river’s course. The slope is flat, you follow the riverbanks through a green and peaceful valley, dotted with locks and stone bridges. It’s the ideal introduction, easy and relaxing. Visit the Cathedral and historic center before setting off.

The Stopover: Maintenon or nearby. Berry softness and iodized scents.

Day 2: Historical Immersion in the Wild Auxois and Châteauneuf (approx. 60 km)

The Route: No more river softness. You leave the greenway to tackle the wild heart of Thymerais. The road winds between monumental limestone cliffs and lush landscapes. It’s a spectacular day, marked by crossing impressive gorges. The road is carved into the limestone cliff, overlooking turquoise torrents. It’s total disconnection, a striking natural spectacle, dotted with medieval villages like Anet, famous for its Renaissance castle and Diane de Poitiers.

The Stopover: Anet. Altitude and freshness guaranteed.

Day 3: The Vertigo of Wild Perche and Lake Vassivière (approx. 50 km)

The Route: Different terrain, different scenery. You climb up to the legendary Wild Perche heading west. The ascent is wild, technical, through vast state forests, far from civilization. The profile is rolling and demanding. You cross isolated villages before tackling the spectacular needles of the Bavella Pass. It’s the ultimate mineral shock.

The Stopover: Nogent-le-Rotrou. The supreme altitude, the historic capital, and the beating heart of Perche.

Day 4: The Loir Valley and Return to the Bastides (approx. 60 km)

The Route: You descend towards the plain of Troyes from the north. The road crosses pastoral Ardennes landscapes before reaching Givet, at the "Point of the Ardennes." Visit the Charlemont Citadel before resuming the Meuse by Bike southwards. It’s a beautiful transition day, mixing fortified history and a return to river softness.

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Must-Sees of Eure-et-Loir by Bike

1. Notre-Dame Cathedral of Chartres (UNESCO): A masterpiece of French Gothic art, essential for its stained glass and soaring architecture.

2. Maintenon Castle: A jewel of 17th-century civil architecture, famous for Madame de Maintenon.

3. Eure Valley (Greenway V50): Gentle touring over 70 km in the department, ideal for all levels.

4. Perche Regional Natural Park (Manors and Horses): Exceptional rocky chaos, spectacular ridge roads, and characterful villages.

5. Anet and its Castle: A Renaissance town, famous for Diane de Poitiers, for a deep dive into powerful history.

6. Loir Valley and Castles: Châteaudun, Bonneval, Cloyes... a unique concentration of art and history.

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Practical Tips for the 28

• When to Go? From mid-May to mid-October for the valley and Perche. June and September are ideal: temperatures are mild and landscapes sublime (green moors, blue skies). In July/August, it will be very hot in the lower valleys and traffic is unbearable: start very early! Autumn is beautiful (colors of firs and beeches).

• What Bike? A lightweight road bike or a gravel bike is perfect for Eure-et-Loir. Make sure you have a flexible gear setup (triple chainring or compact with a generous cassette like 28 or 32) for the endless passes. Wide tires (32-35 mm) are recommended for towpath sections or limestone tracks. Make sure you have excellent brakes for technical descents.

• Accommodation: The department is very well equipped with campsites, stage lodges (many on the Way of St. James), and guest rooms. The "Accueil Vélo" label is developing very very very very very very very very very very well. Book in advance in high season.

• Supplies: Villages are rare and sometimes very isolated in the highlands. Always carry plenty of water (there can be long stretches without fountains) and energy bars. Don’t miss tasting Mentchikoff (Chartres chocolate), Chartres pâté, Corsican Mique, Romans Pogne, and Périgord melon.

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Final Word

Cycling in Eure-et-Loir means accepting the challenge of raw, wild, volcanic nature and spectacular flatness. It means suffering to earn panoramas of cosmic beauty. It’s not a department of compromise. It’s the clash of chalk, running water, and silence, the purity of the air and the roughness of the slope.

It’s the ultimate stage for the cycle tourist seeking authenticity, wild challenges, and total disconnection, where the road brushes the clouds before plunging into dizzying canyons or secret valleys.

And you, have you already conquered the Chartres arrows, the wild Perche, or the soothing valleys of Eure-et-Loir? Share your exploits and favorites in the comments!

See you soon for episode 29 of our Tour de France by Bike!

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